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It was a frightening experience at odds with that land in early autumn: the bushes in the swamp started to turn firery red while the leaves went orange and yellow. The air is crisp and there's enough green for it to stand out. Everything is covered in a light mist in the morning that burns off by lunchtime, and the sun is clear and warm. There is nothing so off putting as standing in radiant beauty believing you are in absolute peril